Bulgaria

Bulgaria, located in the southeastern Balkans, is a country whose people get heated if you criticize their yogurt or opine that North Macedonia isn’t actually Bulgarian after all. If you choose to do this, make sure that you’re around people who won’t punch you. If you know them well, it can be funny to watch them get heated about a topic that mostly matters only to them.

After successfully revolting against Byzantine rule in 681 and again in 1185, the Second Bulgarian Empire fell to the Ottomans in 1396 and remained under its rule until nationalist identities began forming across the Balkans in the late 19th century, including the burgeoning of a distinct Macedonian identity, which the Bulgarians, Serbs, and Greeks still have trouble acknowledging today.

A common misconception about the Cyrillic alphabet is that it was invented by Russians since its letters are synonymous with the Russian language. Two Greek sibling theologians, posthumously named Saints Cyril and Methodius, created the Glagolitic alphabet while in Bulgaria to facilitate the spread of Eastern Orthodox Christianity. Shortly after both of them died, their students used the Glagolitic alphabet as a base for the creation of the Cyrillic alphabet, named after Saint Cyril, which eventually became the prevailing script throughout the Russian Empire.

The Principality of Bulgaria was established in 1878, in the aftermath of the Russo-Turkish War, and recognized as an autonomous region under Ottoman rule. Across the Balkans, nationalist sentiments against Ottoman rule continued to grow, culminating in the establishment of the Balkan League in 1912, in which Bulgaria was one of its most powerful members. Over the next two years, two wars were fought by the Balkan League against the Ottomans in what became known as the First and Second Balkan Wars, resulting in the liberation of much of the Balkans and a severely crippled Ottoman Empire.

After being forced to cede significant chunks of territory, including Macedonia, to its neighbors, Bulgaria, led by Tsar Ferdinand I, initially maintained neutrality during the First World War until the Entente made an offer that aligned with his territorial ambitions in case of victory. Unfortunately for him, he sided with the Central Powers and was forced to cede Macedonia back to the Kingdom of Serbia. After abdicating in shame and passing power to his son, Boris III, so that the monarchy could be preserved, he exiled himself to Germany until his death in 1948.

Tsar Boris III left behind a complex legacy of diplomatic maneuvering during the height of World War Two. His decision to side with Nazi Germany and the Axis Powers was a pragmatic one. Germany promised to honor Bulgaria’s territorial desires to acquire Macedonia, and since Bulgaria was surrounded by Axis or Axis-occupied countries, it seemed in his best interest to sign the Tripartite Pact. However, Boris III never sent Bulgarian forces to fight against the Soviets in any conflict, and he saved the lives of around 50,000 Jews by refusing to deport them to concentration camps. He did, however, send troops to occupy parts of Serbia, Kosovo, and Macedonia after Yugoslavia fell to the Nazis and Italians.

Thirteen months after Boris III’s death, the Red Army took advantage of a successful coup against Prime Minister Konstantin Muraviev, who assumed power a week prior, by invading and occupying Bulgaria with little resistance. The war ended eight months later, and Bulgaria would find itself under the Soviet sphere of influence for almost 45 years.

The longest-serving leader during the communist era was Todor Zhivkov, who ruled from 1954 until 1989. Bulgaria enjoyed a stable economy, and its citizens could easily travel to other Eastern Bloc countries, but special permission was needed to travel to Western countries. After communism fell across Eastern Europe in 1989, Bulgaria, like the rest of them, faced many obstacles in its transition to a democratic government and market economy largely due to pervasive corruption. The country eventually stabilized, joining NATO in 2004 and the European Union in 2007.

Sofia

I’m not going to sugarcoat it – I didn’t like Sofia all that much. I only spent one full day there, but I wasn’t impressed with what I saw. Although the Soviet architecture is quite impressive, such as the National Palace of Culture, the Palace is part of a larger complex where many locals spend their leisure time. In front, there is an enormous park where people mingle and exercise, and the many restaurants are almost always busy. While there are several fascinating museums, including the National History Museum and the Archaeological Museum, unfortunately, there isn’t one that covers the political history of the Bulgarian state.

While there are countless Orthodox cathedrals scattered across Central and Eastern Europe, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is one of the largest in the world.

The Boyana Church dates back to the late 10th or early 11th century and is renowned for its well-preserved medieval frescoes from 1259, which are considered masterpieces of Eastern European medieval art. In 1979, the church was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its cultural and historical significance.

Varna

While Sofia, located in the west, is Bulgaria’s capital city, the coastal city of Varna, in the east, is a popular summer tourist destination due to its golden sandy beaches, pleasant weather, and vibrant nightlife. I have spent more time in Varna than anywhere else in Europe. Not only have I made some good friends there, but there is also a charming seasonal hostel a few kilometers outside of town that remains open during the winter months. The owner’s name is George, and the hostel is called Hostel Varna-Botanika.

There are only a few hostels in the area, but you can find a bed for $7 or $8 a night at the lower end.

Most of the action occurs from the city center to the famous Sea Garden, a massive park that stretches along the coastline for a few kilometers. Here, you will find vendors, a museum about natural and naval history, an aquarium, workout stations, restaurants and bars along the beach, and much more.

Adjacent to the Sea Garden, in the city center, are the largest remains of ancient Roman baths in the Balkans. On the opposite side of the city center is the iconic Dormition of the Mother of God Cathedral. Nearby, you will also find the Varna Archaeological Museum, which houses the oldest gold treasure in the world.

Stone Forest (Pobiti Kamani)

Located less than a half hour’s drive west of Varna is a unique natural phenomenon featuring large stone pillars, with some reaching as high as seven meters and all of which are completely hollow inside. Around 50 million years ago, the area was part of the Black Sea but is now covered with sand and these circular limestone pillars that continue to puzzle scientists to this day.

In the 19th century, a Russian scientist theorized that the area was once home to a giant cyclops. Other scientists found flaws in that hypothesis and now conclude that as the seabed started drying up, weather conditions, including intense patterns of swirling wind, slowly molded the rocks into circular shapes. While this sounds way more plausible than attributing it to a lonely Cyclops, the hollowness of literally every pillar has continued to stump scientists.

Monument to the Founders of the Bulgarian State

If you continue traveling west, you will pass through the small, dilapidated city of Shumen. There isn’t much to see inside the city itself, but atop the giant hill sits a massive, imposing concrete monument that commemorates the 1,300th anniversary of the founding of Bulgaria.

Completed in 1981, it features giant statues of early Bulgarian rulers and other historical figures that resemble characters from the show Transformers three years before it first aired. You will also find a golden mosaic display dedicated to the creation of the Cyrillic alphabet. While there is a stairway leading all the way to the top from the base of Shumen, I highly recommend paying a taxi a few dollars to drive you to the top. Walking down isn’t that bad; it just takes a while.

Buzludzha Monument

Credit to Mark Pass for the Buzludzha pictures.

The Buzludzha Monument was built between 1974 and 1981 to commemorate the founding of the Bulgarian Socialist movement and to serve as a meeting place for the Bulgarian Communist Party. Since the fall of communism in 1989, the spaceship-like structure has been abandoned but remains a popular destination for urban explorers.

Veliko Tarnovo

Once the capital city of the Second Bulgarian Empire, Veliko Tarnovo was an important juncture for major trade routes as well as a cultural hub that rivaled other major cities such as Constantinople. Today, there isn’t much to do besides eat a hamburger and tour the medieval Tsaravets Fortress, which is vast and worth the visit. I don’t know why, but there seemed to be an unusual number of burger restaurants when I was walking around. I have no recommendations, but I did eat at a couple of different places, and they were both good in their own ways. It seemed like one would have a difficult time finding a bad place to eat around there.

Don’t get me wrong, the city itself is aesthetic, clean, and has managed to keep its medieval vibe in the old part of the city, there just isn’t a lot going on in terms of activities. It’s more of a place to go when you want to relax for a couple of days.

The Monument to the Assen Dynasty sits on a hill overlooking the Yantra River and gazing back at the rest of the old city. It honors the second independence from the Byzantine Empire and depicts four prominent Assen rulers – Tsar Ivan Asen I, Tsar Peter IV, Tsar Kaloyan, and Tsar Ivan Asen II.

Plovdiv

Unfortunately, I never made time to visit Plovdiv while spending so much time in Bulgaria. Yes, I’m ashamed of myself. However, I have read and talked to others about the city, and not a single bad word was ever spoken about it. I heard it has a chill vibe, a charming city center, and plenty of archaeological remains, such as the Theatre of Philippopolis.

The city is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe, dating back to 6,000 BCE (the oldest is 830 km away in Vinkovci, Croatia). If you search for pictures, you will find picturesque cobblestone streets winding through traditional houses.