Turkey
My first visit to Turkey was in the summer of 2023, but I only had the chance to explore a small portion of the country during my three-week stay. I was finally able to return at the end of February 2024, spending almost three months roaming the west coast and the Kurdish region in the southeast. On my first trip, I managed to check off one of the three experiences on my Turkish bucket list: riding in a hot air balloon over Cappadocia in central Turkey. The remaining two destinations on my list were the ancient city of Troy and the renowned archaeological site of Göbekli Tepe.
The Anatolia and Caucasus regions have been at the crossroads of empires and nation-states for millennia. In 1918, as World War I ended, the mighty Ottoman Empire collapsed after ruling the vast region for over six hundred years. Amidst this collapse, the Empire also carried out a genocide against the Armenian population in the east, which was predominantly Christian. From 1915 to the end of the war, over 1.5 million Armenians were systematically murdered, along with hundreds of thousands of Greek and Assyrian Christians. I will provide more details on this topic once I write the Armenia page.
The 1920 Treaty of Sèvres, signed by the Allied Powers and the Ottoman Empire, proposed the creation of an autonomous Kurdistan and outlined borders for the Middle East, but the treaty was never ratified. Members of the Turkish Nationalist Movement overpowered Kurdish resistance, while the Western powers failed to enforce the provisions for Kurdish autonomy, foreshadowing a series of future betrayals of the Kurdish people by their allies. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the leader of the Movement, led the negotiations for the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, which established Turkey’s present-day borders. Any hope of Kurdish autonomy was eliminated, and the government has since denied recognizing Kurds as a separate ethnic group.
Today, the current borders and Kurdish oppression persist, while Atatürk remains a highly revered national hero, extolled to the highest degree. His portrait is displayed throughout the country in both government and private establishments. As a foreigner, it’s best to ask questions about Atatürk rather than offer an opinion unless it is unequivocally positive.
This is not the case, however, when it comes to discussing modern-day politics, as you will be hard-pressed to find anyone in the cities who supports President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan. During my several months there in the spring of 2024, I was frequently asked whether I supported Trump or Biden, so I would inquire about their support for Erdoğan. None of the people with whom I interacted expressed support for him, which I found rather interesting.
The largest city in Turkey by far is Istanbul, formerly known as Constantinople. Although Ankara is the capital, Istanbul is by far the largest, with a population of around 20 million, including students and tourists. In my opinion, the city is way too vast and overcrowded. While it boasts incredible historical sites and a vibrant cultural environment, everything seems to be at least forty minutes away, whether you're walking, taking a taxi, or using public transportation. Unlike most Turkish cities where you can pay with wireless debit transactions, Istanbul’s city buses require payment via a preloaded city card, so be sure to prepare for that if you decide to visit.
Outside of Istanbul, the situation is quite different. The country is vast, but fortunately, public transportation is generally affordable. With 81 provinces and around 60 airports, it’s common for people, especially foreigners, to fly from one city to another. For instance, I flew from an airport near Cappadocia to Istanbul for less than $60. Buses are also very affordable and offer scenic rides across Turkey’s diverse landscape.
One important aspect to keep in mind is the periodic Islamic call to prayer, which occurs five times a day through the mosques’ PA systems. The first call happens two hours before sunrise, so as the summer months approached, I was occasionally woken up as early as 3:30 a.m. While you may not hear it everywhere you stay, it can often be quite difficult to avoid.
Also, make sure to check when the country is observing the Islamic holy month of Ramadan. While you might not notice it if you are not Muslim, Islamic tradition mandates that Muslims fast during daylight hours. If you are there during this period, be prepared to hear a drummer walking the streets a few hours before sunrise. Since those observing Ramadan are not allowed to eat during the day, the drum is used to wake people up with enough time to eat before sunrise. While I support preserving traditions, I feel like this is a perfect example of a tradition that nobody would miss if it were discontinued, given that alarm clocks now exist. I found as many people who favored this particular tradition as I did Erdoğan supporters.
While none of that may seem particularly troubling, I strongly advise avoiding travel through Turkey at the end of Ramadan, as bus stations, businesses, and hotels become extremely overcrowded. Apart from this, I highly recommend visiting Turkey at any other time of the year. You will thoroughly enjoy it.
Istanbul
One of the largest cities in the world, Istanbul is a city of contrasts and historical significance, straddling both Europe and Asia across the Bosphorus Strait. I spoke with many people who estimated the population to be about 20 million.
During its time as Constantinople, the city was a thriving center of Roman power. It served as the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, playing a pivotal role in the empire's administration and culture for which it is still renowned today. The city has an antiquated feel to it, making the Apple stores and designer clothing shops feel a bit anachronistic. There are restaurants and street food vendors almost everywhere you go, and you will probably be impressed by just about all of them. I can’t stress how massive this city is.
Istanbul is renowned for its rich cultural and architectural heritage. Arguably the city’s most iconic landmark is the Hagia Sophia constructed under Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. An architectural marvel of its time, it was inaugurated in 537 CE as an Eastern Orthodox cathedral, serving as the center of Byzantine worship for nearly 1,000 years.
In 1054, The Great Schism established the formal division between the Roman Catholic Church and the Eastern Orthodox Church, the culmination of long-standing theological, political, and cultural disagreements, including contentious issues of papal authority and liturgical practices. Originally a symbol of Eastern Orthodoxy, the Hagia Sophia continued to serve as the primary cathedral for the Orthodox Church after the schism until the pivotal Fall of Constantinople in 1453. After the Ottoman victory, Sultan Mehmed II converted the Hagia Sophia into a mosque, solidifying a dramatic shift in religious and political dominance in the region.
In 1935, under the secular reforms of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the Hagia Sophia was secularized and turned into a museum. In 2020, it was re-converted into a mosque by a Turkish court’s decision, sparking renewed interest concerning its historical and cultural significance.
Nearby, people line up for entry to the ornate Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque). Completed in 1616, the elegant mosque is renowned for its intricate blue tiles and impressive dome ceilings.
In addition to these historic sites, Istanbul is home to the Grand Bazaar, one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, where visitors can experience a maze of shops selling everything from spices to jewelry and virtually anything else you can imagine. A few minutes from these places is the Basilica Cistern, an ancient underground water reservoir featuring eerie yet beautiful columns that serve as a testament to the city’s engineering marvels. You can learn much more about Islam’s scientific and scholarly contributions at the compelling Istanbul Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam.
All of these places can be found scattered around the bustling Bosphorus Peninsula, but if you’d like to experience a taste of modern Istanbul, you will need to cross the bridge over the Golden Horn. The Galata Tower provides panoramic views of the city and the Bosphorus Straight, while Istiklal Avenue, a bustling pedestrian street, is lined with shops, cafes, and historical buildings, including the Pera Museum and St. Anthony of Padua Church.
The city’s vibrant neighborhoods, such as Kadıköy and Beşiktaş, offer a blend of traditional and contemporary experiences. You can also find cruises that provide scenic views of the city’s skyline and waterfront palaces, such as Dolmabahçe Palace and Çırağan Palace.
If you have time to spend, give yourself around two weeks to visit everything on the list and properly explore on your own. Cabs are cheap but they can easily add up, and public transportation, while normally my travel method of choice, can be a nightmare, so be sure to factor in commute times when visiting.
Çanakkale - Gallipoli Memorial and the Ancient City of Troy
In Çanakkale, by the sea, you will find a free museum dedicated to the Battle of Gallipoli, a significant but often overlooked conflict from World War I. Lasting nearly nine months, the battle was an Allied attempt to gain control of the Dardanelles Strait, a crucial waterway providing direct access to the Black Sea. Just across the strait, the Gallipoli Peninsula is home to several memorials and cemeteries honoring the soldiers who fought in the battle. While you’re there, don’t miss the Trojan horse movie prop from the Brad Pitt film that nobody seems to like.
Ancient City of Troy: The giant prop is in Çanakkale because the ancient city of Troy lies to the south, the site of the legendary Trojan War as described in Homer’s Iliad. Visitors can explore this famous archaeological site and delve into its fascinating history. I was fortunate to meet Professor Okan Gundogan, an archaeologist who studies artifacts from the site when he’s not teaching at the university. Okan kindly showed me around both the expansive museum and the archaeological site, providing explanations that far exceeded what the placards or a few web pages could offer.
Izmir - Agora of Smyrna
A vibrant city on Turkey's Aegean coast, Izmir is rich in history and culture. It offers a mix of ancient sites, like the Agora of Smyrna, and modern attractions, including bustling markets and a lively waterfront promenade. Visitors can explore the historic Kemeralti Bazaar, relax in the scenic Kordon, or visit the iconic Clock Tower. The city's proximity to other famous sites like Ephesus and the coastal town of Cesme makes it a great base for exploring the region
I was surprised to learn that roughly three million people inhabit this vibrant city in the center of the Aegean coastline. It’s an underestimated city rich in history and culture. Agora of Smyrna is the main attraction the city has to offer, but there are also many bustling markets and a lively waterfront promenade. My Kurdish friend Yunuk brought me to a local market that’s only open on Sundays with a plethora of fresh fish and produce. Areas like that can be found all over the city, just ask around and you’ll find one rather quickly.
I found a Radio and Democracy Museum hidden around the corner of a street market, marked by a small sign to the left of its door. The museum offers a fascinating look at the important role that broadcast radio played in shaping public opinion and supporting the growth of democratic movements in Turkey. Make sure to check it out if you’re into that sort of thing.
The many parks surrounding the city offer plenty of great hiking and camping spots. One of the city’s most famous attractions is the Agora of Smyrna, an ancient Roman marketplace dating back to the 2nd century AD. This site provides a fascinating glimpse into the commercial and social life of ancient Smyrna, with well-preserved columns, arches, and inscriptions in a unique underground area.
Selçuk - Ephesus Ancient City and the Alleged House of the Virgin Mary
Ephesus is one of the most well-preserved ancient cities in the world, featuring iconic landmarks such as the Library of Celsus and the Great Theatre. I was amazed by how vast and well-preserved it still is.
Nearby is the alleged final residence of the Virgin Mary, and is a revered pilgrimage site for Christians. It’s best to go by car to this one if you can. You can find some tour lines that will take you out there as well. Be prepared to be approached by scammy taxi drivers wanting to charge $35 or more out in front of Ephesus.
Bodrum - Tourist Town
Bodrum is a bustling coastal town on the Aegean Sea, renowned for its beautiful beaches and lively nightlife that attracts tourists from around the world. There isn’t much happening here besides summer activities. I was there in March are much of the city was virtually closed down. It’s like a ghost town outside of tourist season, but the peninsula does offer a pretty drive and quiet atmosphere if you have your own vehicle.
Denizli - Hierapolis Ancient City and the Pamukkale Water Terraces
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Pamukkale water terraces outside of Denizli are a natural marvel, featuring terraces of white travertine formed by mineral-rich hot springs. These thermal pools have been a popular spa destination since ancient times by the residents of the ancient city of Hierapolis, where you will explore the large, well-preserved necropolis, an amphitheater, and the Temple of Apollo. Buses run all day and most of them will drop you off at this entrance.
From there, you will make your way through the ruins and end the tour wading through the warm water terraces. Once you have left the park, if you ask the security guard he will point to the right and explain where the nearest bus stop is so you can go back to Denizli.
Cappadocia
Cappadocia is most famous for its postcard-like pictures of a sky filled with dozens of hot air balloons floating over a surreal desert landscape of unique fairy-tale chimneys and other unusual rock formations. You will stay in Göreme, a small village centered around tourism and balloon rides, which can greatly vary in price. The cheapest I found was $150, while most were advertised for $200 or more. Luckily, I was able to book one for $100 through connections with the hostel owners.
Do go up in a balloon if you can; it’s quite an amazing experience. You ascend about the time the sun peeks over the horizon and finish about 45 minutes to an hour later. Small crowds of people are always scattered around the outskirts of the town to watch the show, while sometimes the balloons fly so close overhead that you can reach out and touch them.
There are also many hiking trails, caves, an underground city, and Uçisar Castle, an otherworldly major rock fortification carved into a mountain.
Kurdish Region
Şanlıurfa (Urfa)
Göbekli Tepe
I made the mistake of visiting Şanlıurfa at the end of Ramadan when visiting crowds were at their height. Fortunately, I found someone on the Couchsurfing app to host me for a couple of nights. His name was Veysil, and he was also fascinated by archaeology. Using Google Translate for communication, he accepted my offer to accompany me to Göbekli Tepe, an archaeological site dating back over 11,000 years. The area is considered the world's oldest known temple complex alongside neighboring Karahan Tepe, offering groundbreaking insights into early human civilization.
While we took a city bus out there, his friend, Kadir, came and picked us up in his car. I thought he was simply taking us back to the apartment, but as time passed and I noticed we were driving south of town, I realized that there was another surprise waiting for me. I didn’t bother to ask because I wanted to keep it a surprise,
Harran Beehive Houses and the World’s Oldest University
Kadir later turned left into the nearby village of Harran, which features distinctive mud-brick beehive-shaped houses that have been continuously inhabited for thousands of years and are a unique example of traditional architecture.
Nearby are the ruins of Harran University, the world’s oldest-known university, dating back over 1,000 years. The main area was fenced off to visitors, but everything is still highly visible and the ruins outside the fence can be fun to explore. I took my time walking around, unaware that there was yet another place they wanted to show me, this time in a remote part of the province.
Soğmatar
In what is more of a settlement than a village, Soğmatar isn’t a well-known place for most people, which is part of its allure. The place is only accessible by car, and you will almost immediately be greeted by a group of young children who are eager to give visitors a guided tour – for a small tip, of course.
The other alluring aspect is all of the fairly well-preserved statues that are carved in caves and on the sides of a few boulders that make up the landscape. Used as an ancient worship site dating back to the second century, the sun god Shams and the moon god Sin are still in good condition after having survived the elements for almost two thousand years.
Another fascinating feature lies directly above, on the rock face of the landscape. About fifty meters away, you will find inscriptions that still baffle archaeologists to this day.
If you explore the opposite end of Soğmatar, you will notice a few caves both under and above ground. A few of the ones above ground served as a jail that once held local prisoners, the remnants of which can still be seen. Shine a flashlight along the walls and you’ll notice several eroded statues carved into the walls, two of which adorn a pair of what appears to be devil horns.
It was dark when we left. We drove about a half hour back into the city, but after checking my GPS, I noticed that we still weren’t heading to the apartment.
Sacred Lake Balıklıgöl
Despite its name, Balıklıgöl is actually more of a pond that is a revered site for monotheists believing in the Abrahamic God. The “lake” is believed to be where the prophet Abraham was thrown into the fire by King Nimrod, with the flames turning into water and the embers into fish. The cave where Abraham was supposedly born is also located here. The area surrounding Balıklıgöl is quite large and populated by tourists and locals.
Adıyaman - Nemrut Dağı
After a full day of archaeological exploration, I decided that I needed to see more. I took a bus north to the city of Adıyaman, where I met another man on Couchsurfing named Ismail, and with him was a New Yorker with the same name. The objective that day was to see Nemrut Dağı, one of Turkey's most enigmatic and awe-inspiring ancient sites.
Labeled a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, Nemrut Dağı was part of the ancient Kingdom of Commagene, a small but wealthy and culturally vibrant state that existed from around 163 BCE to 72 CE, which served as a buffer state between the Roman and Parthian Empires. Today, the mountain is renowned for its colossal statues and the burial mound of King Antiochus I of Commagene, offering a fascinating blend of Hellenistic, Persian, and Anatolian cultures and breathtaking views from the top of the Taurus Mountains.
Elevation reaches a height of about 2,134 meters (7,001 feet) above sea level. There are local tour buses that go there, but visitors must also climb hundreds of stairs to reach the monuments. Although not on my bucket list, Nemrut was one of my favorite destinations.
Between Adıyaman and Nemrut you will find many other places of interest, including the Cendere Bridge. The drive alone is worth the trip!
